Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

1.11.2007

An Unlikely Affair With Arkansas


Like most of college basketball fans coming of age in the early/mid 1990’s, I had no idea that Arkansas was a member of the Union. The state’s name itself simply referred to the Razorbacks basketball team that was dominating the NCAA, and nothing more. Should a governor be mentioned, I assumed they meant coach Nolan Richardson. I was as surprised as anyone to find out that “The Arkansas Legislature” wasn’t Corliss Williamson’s nickname. Any other information regarding the state, including the annual evening news puff pieces about President Clinton’s home town, was quickly disregarded, because it was just one of those places that never sunk in as being real. Kind of like Timbuktu, the name comes up often enough, but does it mean anything? With the disregard I had paid to the place’s very existence, I could never picture myself setting foot in this land of make-believe. And yet, as of June 2006, I have been there and would like to share my findings.

A few years back, my father, in his infinite randomness, started making regular trips from his home in Florida to a small Ozark Mountain town called Eureka Springs. Every time he would return with glowing reviews of the land and people he found there. My brother Jon and I made the trip down from Denver to meet up with him this past summer to see it for ourselves. Dad stayed on with a friend for a few days after Jon and I headed back home, and when I spoke to him later that week, he had put an offer down on a house and was arranging to start a new job at the Eureka Springs Hospital. Fast-forward to December; Jon and girlfriend head back to Arkansas to spend the holidays. Next thing I know, they’ve given notice at their jobs and are moving down to join the old man at the end of the month.

From what I saw during my visit, Northwestern Arkansas looks to be one of the fastest growing areas in the country, with the growth vaguely centering around the largest job markets: Fayetteville and Bentonville. The two major corporate headquarters (Wal-Mart and Tyson Chicken) in the area plus dirt cheap real estate, scenic locations, abundant recreation, and some genuinely interesting places to visit add up to a destination that I suspect will draw an increasing number of people in the near future. With that in mind, let’s take a closer look at this mystery state.


Arkansas: “The Land of Opportunity.”

Nickname: The Natural State

Geography: No one can really say for sure. Sits somewhere roughly mid-country, maybe. However, it is fairly mountainous, so we can say definitively that it is not in Iowa, Illinois, Nebraska, or Kansas. Actually, the only way to find it is to follow the signs from Paris,Texas or fly (a third route, not approved by the Six Talking Heads involves rafting down the Arkansas river from Buena Vista, CO).

Climate: Mostly hot, with a chance of ice storms in the winter. Regardless, it always seems to be no-shirt season to some residents.

Official Language, Religion, and Demographic Information: Southern, with a strong concentration of Walmartish sects in the Northwest.

Major Cities: Arkadelphia, Bald Knob, Bonanaza, Bono, Elaine, Flippin, Marked Tree, Marmaduke, Quitman, Stutgart, and Texarkana.

Economy: Tourism, agriculture, and vanadium. Ok, enough joking. Just do what Wal-Mart tells you to do.

Wildlife: Razorbacks, apparently. Perhaps Scotty Thurman is still on the loose, most likely hanging out in one of the region’s extensive underground cave systems. And chiggers, able to seek out and imbed themselves into even the most well protected body, including one’s nether regions.

State Motto: No, Deliverance was not filmed here.

I have to admit, Arkansas was a charming place to visit. Check it out if you are ever in the area hunting razorbacks, protesting outside of Wal-Mart HQ, or if you get hopelessly lost on the way to work. Eureka Springs developed as one of several havens for wealthy urbanites that sought out natural springs for relief from the nasty diseases readily available in the early 1900s. Preservation has ensured that these small mountain getaways still feature stately old Victorian homes perched on lots that are cut into the side of the local mountain. Not only are the towns picturesque; the numerous waterways with high bluffs on either side provided some of the most visually striking canoeing I’d ever undertaken (this was a main draw for my dad, who has recently been amassing what he calls his “plastic navy”). Buffalo River is designated the National Scenic River for the entire USA. Eureka itself has a great sense of community for a town of roughly 2,000, and I can imagine my opinion of the population will only improve now that I am related to 1% of it.

Good luck with the move, Jon and Mo!

Non-Arkansas thoughts from the past week:
  • Is it just me, or does the $68 million ponied up by the City of Philadelphia and members of the region’s art community for Eakin’s Gross Clinic feel less like an investment in the arts, and more like a kid not caring about a toy until some other kid tries to take it away. The arts do great things for a city’s image, but it is a vibrant current art scene that attracts creative people to stay long-term. That money, even a fraction of it, could have gone to any number of local artists who are still trying to pay rent or helped open a gallery somewhere outside of slimy Old City. That single painting is going to sit in a single room and die slowly. Sigh.
  • Even non-techies are giddy about the new iPhone. I read that there was actual hooting coming from the audience when some of the new features were being demonstrated at the MacWorld event. Apple knows how to make an entrance. They are expecting to sell 10 million of the phones which will retail for about $400-$600!
  • I’m getting those bald spots on my legs from years of pants rubbing against the back of my calves (some people’s come from years of crew sock abuse, something I’ve managed to avoid despite hereditary inclinations). And so begins my own slow decay.
  • Finally, I walked into work this morning to find what looked a lot like a puddle of urine in the hallway outside my organizations cluster of offices. Luckily, someone had the presence of mind to throw down some newspaper...and leave it there. 2007, I like you already.

12.28.2006

Living in Denver: An Ex-Resident's Tips for Iverson


I was out for dinner last week, and I ran into an acquaintance I had known from a few years back. After explaining that I had just moved back to Philadelphia from Denver, he jokingly asked if I had been part of the Iverson trade. We all had a good laugh at the absurdity of the comment (even though I will probably have the same impact on the Sixers as Joe Smith will - none), but upon further thought, I realized that I had, in fact, essentially swapped spots with AI. That being the case, I think it is my duty as a human to give him this parting gift as thanks for all the things that he has done for us, the good people of Philly. I can impart my year of experience to help him avoid some of the mistakes that I made when moving from the East Coast to the Wild West - these tips will also be helpful for anyone heading out west to find some actual snow this winter. Without further ado, I proudly present:

Ben’s Guide to Living Mile High.

Tip 1. Never Speed Traveling To and From the Airport
I list this first because I’ve heard you like to drive fast Allen, and because anyone in their right mind flies to Colorado. To get there by car, you would most likely have to drive through Kansas and the high plains. While it may not seem like much, I have heard stories of people resorting to cannibalism along the endless stretches of uninhabited wasteland that you find in the Jayhawk state; under no circumstances is this a route worth taking.

Back to the tip. Denver’s airport is a solid 35 minute drive from the city when there is no traffic; often, it will easily take an hour. In the event that you are running behind schedule for your flight, be aware that the city of Aurora (where the airport is) probably equals the GDP of most third world countries with fines paid out of the pockets of people speeding to Denver International. I agreed with many other nonnative Coloradans that the state’s drivers are terrible for the most part. However, you can be sure that when flow of traffic generally sticks close to the posted speed limits, it’s (maybe) not because they are stoned, but because they have probably been burned at least once.

Tip 2. Know Your Liquor Laws
I’m not even positive that you drink, but here is a heads up: Colorado people like their alcohol. Even though it is the home of Coors, microbrews are king. New Belgium beers are popular choices, and lots of restaurants even haven home-brewed offerings. When skiing or snowboarding in the mountains, stick to spiked hot drinks; they will warm you up while making you forget the bruises you got from trying to split a stand of trees like they were some weak-ass double team.

Colorado is great for centrally located booze purchasing, unlike Pennsylvania. Wine, liquor, and beer can all be purchased from the same place. Most neighborhoods and strip malls usually have at least one such store, but selection and price will vary greatly. Argonaut Liquors on Colfax will always have what you need for cheap. Grocery and convenience stores also have beer for sale in cooler aisles, but it is usually 3.2 beer. For the uninformed, 3.2 beer is a lower-alcohol-content version of the conventional beers that are widely distributed to bars and liquor stores. These are to be generally avoided, unless it is a Sunday, because they are all that you can buy. Side note: Should you venture west to Utah, state law restricts beer sales to nothing stronger than 3.2. Shudder.

As in PA, bars all close at 2:00 AM, but last calls tend to happen much earlier. There are a few late night spots to continue the party into the wee hours, but only Gatorade or Red Bull available to drink. Then again, you are Allen Iverson, and these rules may not apply to you.

Tip 3. The Unwritten Law of Washington Park
Somewhere in the Colorado’s State Constitution, invisibly nestled between articles XII and XIII is an edict that is somehow the most efficiently and unknowingly enforced law in the land. I imagine it reads something like this:

On any day that shall fall between Friday and Monday, wherein the sun is not more than 30 percent obscured by clouds and the median temperature is not less than 70 degrees, every resident with a pulse shall recreate within the borders of Washington Park.
Given the large number of warm and sunny days in Denver, you can interpret that as generally any weekend day, this park will be so teeming with people that it will start to look like salmon spawning. And, for the most part, people are there for a similar reason, to find a suitable mate and reproduce.

Endlessly lapping the perimeter will be fully uniformed teams of cyclists practicing their drafting techniques, joggers from all over the city who drive their cars just so they can pound out a few miles on these crowded paths, rollerbladers, apparently they still exist, and one guy on one of those bikes that you lay down to pedal. Inside the lap makers, people keep to an amazingly strict zoning scheme that is dependent on their desired activity. Yuppie parents with young kids stay towards the northern end of the park. The playground is there, it is close to the parking lot for quick Volvo-escape, and there is a reduced risk of coming into contact with the hippies that may be milling around other parts of the park. The line of trees that separates the playground from the playing field is reserved for people who came to watch the activities. They are designated bag-watchers, dog-minders, and scorekeepers. Nalgene water bottles come standard. Then you have the playing fields, which go in this specific order from north to south: ultimate frisbee, volleyball, soccer, basketball. Allen, when considering which group to join, consider that the level of basketball talent is comparable to a bunch of drunken seven year olds, don’t bother. Strange as it may seem and slighting my beloved ultimate frisbee, your best bet is probably volleyball. The people come en masse equipped with their own nets and boundary lines. There is no shortage of impressive plays and talented players, and I know your all out style would be a hit. Plus the girls are smokin. Just watch out for....

Tip 4. Mind the Feces
Everyone in Denver has a dog. Everyone. However, very few of the owners bother to actually clean up after their pets. Keep in mind that small dog ownership is absolutely restricted to the coastal regions of the United States. In the middle of the country, any animal that can’t pull a sled of medical supplies 35 miles through the snow isn’t worth having. So needless to say, they eat like horses and craps are huge as a result. I’m not sure why people don’t pick it up off the sidewalk. Maybe it’s because they are soooo laid back; “Like, if nature wanted dogs to poop in bags they would make their own like a silk worm, man.” Riiiight. There also aren’t very many garbage cans along the sidewalks of residential neighborhoods, so I assume they are just lazy. Regardless there is dog poop everywhere. Also, watch out for the goose shite in areas surrounding lakes/ponds. The warm winters attract lots of migrant birds, many of which fail to ever return home in the summer. It’s a Colorado thing, you get stuck there. The bottom line is that you should always check your shoes before you walk in the house.

Tip 5. Never Forget Where You Came From
Colorado attracts people from all over; a lot of the people have come to find themselves a new start against the ever present backdrop of picture perfect mountain views. Along the way, I always found myself just fading into the crowd of people from somewhere else ready to get comfortable and live out my days quietly and comfortably. And then something would trigger my memory of my life before the mountains, parks, and dogs. Something you said last week echoes this feeling: “This city [Philly] made me into the man I am today.” Never forget that drive that you have that inspired this city time and again. It’s that us against the world mentality that makes you great, and this is a city that pounds that into people. I hope that you get the championship you so deserve in Denver, and the next day, get your ass back to the city that adores you. I’ll organize the parade down Broad Street.



Follow up from last week:
I lost my fantasy football championship game by 3 points, here was my lineup - try to imagine picking these guys on your league’s draft day at the beginning of this season:

QB - Michael Vick
RB - Ladell Betts
RB - Ron Dayne
WR - Bernard Berrian
WR - Jerricho Cotchery
TE - Tony Scheffler
K - Nate Kaeding
Def/ST - Kansas City

SO CLOSE!!!!!!!